Thursday, October 21, 2010
Where You At? Ask Your Phone, Not Your Friend
GPS is taking off, as phone makers, carriers, and service providers have realized that consumers generally have no idea where they are, ever. A location-based service (LBS) takes raw GPS data that pinpoints your location and enhances this information with additional services, from suggesting nearby restaurants to specifying the whereabouts of your friends.
What is it? LBS was originally envisioned as simply using old-school cell-phone signal triangulation to locate users' whereabouts, but as the chips become more common and more sophisticated, GPS is proving to be not only handy and accurate but also the basis for new services. Many startups have formed around location-based services. Want a date? Never mind who's compatible; who's nearby? MeetMoi can find them. Need to get a dozen people all in one place? Both Whrrl and uLocate's Buddy Beacon tell you where your friends are in real time.
Of course, not everyone is thrilled about LBS: Worries about surreptitious tracking or stalking are commonplace, as is the possibility of a flood of spam messages being delivered to your phone.
When is it coming? LBS is growing fast. The only thing holding it back is the slow uptake of GPS-enabled phones (and carriers' steep fees to activate the function). But with iPhones selling like Ben & Jerry's in July, that's not much of a hurdle to overcome. Expect to see massive adoption of these technologies in 2009 and 2010.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
64-Bit Computing Allows for More RAM
In 1986, Intel introduced its first 32-bit CPU. It wasn't until 1993 that the first fully 32-bit Windows OS--Windows NT 3.1--followed, officially ending the 16-bit era. Now 64-bit processors have become the norm in desktops and notebooks, though Microsoft still won't commit to an all-64-bit Windows. But it can't live in the 32-bit world forever.
What is it? 64-bit versions of Windows have been around since Windows XP, and 64-bit CPUs have been with us even longer. In fact, virtually every computer sold today has a 64-bit processor under the hood. At some point Microsoft will have to jettison 32-bit altogether, as it did with 16-bit when it launched Windows NT, if it wants to induce consumers (and third-party hardware and software developers) to upgrade. That isn't likely with Windows 7: The upcoming OS is already being demoed in 32-bit and 64-bit versions. But limitations in 32-bit's addressing structure will eventually force everyone's hand; it's already a problem for 32-bit Vista users, who have found that the OS won't access more than about 3GB of RAM because it simply doesn't have the bits to access additional memory.
When is it coming? Expect to see the shift toward 64-bit accelerate with Windows 7; Microsoft will likely switch over to 64-bit exclusively with Windows 8. That'll be 2013 at the earliest. Meanwhile, Mac OS X Leopard is already 64-bit, and some hardware manufacturers are currently trying to transition customers to 64-bit versions of Windows (Samsung says it will push its entire PC line to 64-bit in early 2009). And what about 128-bit computing, which would represent the next big jump? Let's tackle one sea change at a time--and prepare for that move around 2025.
Shut Down Unwanted Processes With Process
Like most Windows users, I have a love/hate relationship with the OS's Task Manager. When it works to kill an application or a process that's slowing down my PC, I love it. But when the Task Manager doesn't work (something that happens all too often), or when it simply works too slowly, well, you know how I feel. Enter SoftwareOK's ProcessKO (free): this teeny-tiny utility lets you knock out processes simply by clicking a button. But PC newbies take note: ProcessKO is not for you.
Once you've designated a process as a favorite, you can terminate it simply by clicking on its icon.
ProcessKO resides in a small (43KB) executable file that you run whenever you'd like to use it--no installation required. It offers three main options for managing your PC's processes: Favorites, Instant K.O., and KO Timer. Instant K.O. works the most like your Windows Task Manager, albeit much more quickly. Clicking on this option instantly brings up a list of all of your PC's running process; you simply scroll down the list and highlight the one you'd like to terminate. I tested ProcessKO on two systems: a Dell laptop and a Dell desktop, both of which run Windows 7. The desktop usually runs without any problems, though I do notice that my Google toolbar sometimes slows down Internet Explorer. I was able to use ProcessKO to terminate the toolbar's process--and sometimes the IE process--to prevent my PC from stalling. My laptop often has problems with iTunes, which can stall and freeze the entire PC, so I was able to use ProcessKO to terminate iTunes before the deep freeze set in.
KO Timer lets you select which processes you'd like to terminate on a schedule you set, while Favorites lets you add processes that you know you need to deal with regularly. Clicking this option brings up a list of your PC's processes, from which you can select those that you'd like to add as Favorites. Once you've designated a process as a Favorite, a small icon denoting it is added to the ProcessKO Windows. Note, though, that many of the processes (especially those pertaining to Windows' functions, as opposed to specific apps) appear with the same icon, and you can see the name of the process only by mousing over it. And, the name of the process is just what you'd see in the process list, so not only do you have to remember the difference between similar-looking process names such as sprtcmd.exe and sprtsvc.exe, you have to know which (if either) of these processes is safe to kill, if you've added both to the Favorites list.
You can kill a process simply by clicking its icon in the Favorites list, but ProcessKO doesn't offer the same kind of hand-holding that Windows does. Whereas the Windows Task manager will warn you that ending a process can result in lost data and an unstable system, ProcessKO simply makes sure you've accepted its "Expert Clause." You can't proceed until you've checked the box that says "I am an expert and I know what I am doing!" Any trouble that results, well, that's for you to deal with.
That's why PC novices should stay away from ProcessKO (and from terminating processes using Windows Task Manager in most situations, too). But PC power users will appreciate the speed and simplicity of ProcessKO, as well as the amount of control it gives them over their Windows system.
Should You Increase Your Page File Size In Windows For Better Performance?
With windows , the maximum virtual memory in 32-bit is capped at 4GB and the page file size at 16TB. In 64-bit Windows, virtual memory can be 16TB in size with a maximum page file size on 256TB.
Does this mean you need to stock up on gobs and gobs of HDD space for maximum performance? No, because RAM is faster than a hard drive is. It is far more desirable to have more stuff running in RAM than to be stored on a page file; this is the reason why the old adage of "max out your RAM" still holds true to this day.
This is, by the way, why it’s a good idea to go 64-bit. A 32-bit architecture supports a maximum 4GB physical RAM. That’s it. With 32-bit Windows you get "robbed" of almost a full GB of RAM even if you have 4GB physically installed due to what’s known now as a 3 GB barrier. With 64-bit you are currently only limited to what the motherboard can physically hold. Most new PCs today can physically hold 8GB RAM on the low end and 24GB on the high. More is better; that hasn’t changed.
Maxed-out RAM however doesn’t count for much if the hard drive isn’t up to the job concerning the paging file.
The paging file in Windows is stored on your hard drive. If you want to see the information on what Windows is using for space concerning that, do the following:
- Start button / Windows logo
- Run
- Type sysadm.cpl, click OK
- Click Advanced tab
- Under Performance click Settings button
- (From new window that pops up) Click Advanced tab
Under Virtual Memory you will see "Total paging file size for all drives: XXXX MB" where XXXX is the current number of MB used. This number is usually identical to the amount of physical RAM in your system.
Modifying The Page File Size – Should You Do It?
This depends on a few factors.
1. Do you intend to increase or decrease the size?
Decreasing the size is not recommended because it can potentially crash Windows. A lot. Why? Because you’ll go to run something, Windows will run out of virtual memory and… blue-screen.
Increasing the size is OK if your hard drive is in decent condition. See next point.
2. Is your hard drive in decent condition?
"Decent condition" defined: A hard drive under 5 years old that has not gone through super-heavy usage.
The page file in Windows is large by nature, changes often, fragments here and there and so on. An increased page file is best used on a hard drive that can take the punishment, so to speak.
Older HDDs on the other hand are best described as "tired"; a larger page file set may cause Windows to crash. On older HDDs it’s best to keep the page file setting to automatic, i.e. "System Controlled."
3. Do you have the HDD space to dedicate for virtual memory space?
The general rule of thumb is that if you want to increase your page file size, it should be double the amount of physical RAM currently installed in your system as a minimum, and double that as a maximum – if you have the space to spare. If not, don’t do it because that’s blue-screen city.
Example:
If you have 2GB RAM, new page file minimum size is 4GB, maximum 8GB.
If you have 4GB RAM, new page file minimum size is 8GB, maximum 16GB.
4. Do you need to?
This is the most important of the questions to answer.
Most people never have to modify the Windows page file because they simply don’t have any real need to do so. On my desktop PC, I always use the automatic method. However there are a few instances where I would modify it if I needed to:
High-End Gaming PC
If I were a hardcore gamer playing games that had massive requirements for pretty much.. well.. everything, yes I would bump up my page file. This would in turn make my high-end games run smoother and launch slightly faster. Maybe not by a large margin, but any advantage helps in gaming
Home File Server
File servers do nothing but sit there and serve files, obviously. What happens however is that these are computers that stay on for weeks or months at a time unattended. Giving Windows more page file space allows me to reboot less because it will take a lot longer for Windows to run out of virtual memory – if ever.
If I had a box with Windows being used as a file server and it locked up every few weeks for apparently no reason at all, and I had already ruled out everything else that would cause it (such as brownout, wonky network connectivity, etc.), I would bump up the page file – but again only after ruling out everything else.
I should note that the chance of a Windows-based server lockup being due to a virtual memory file problem is slim at best. But if you’ve already troubleshot everything you can possibly think of, replaced RAM sticks with new and the problem is still there, bumping up the page file may fix it.
Bad RAM
In rare instances a RAM stick will go bad, and it will most likely be the case that only one out of a set doesn’t work. If for example there were two 1GB sticks, the bad one is taken out and then the box runs on 1 until replacements are acquired and installed. Were I placed in that situation I would bump up the page file to compensate for the fact my physical RAM is only half of what it normally is. This would be a temporary solution, and while it wouldn’t run nearly as well as with 2GB, it at least makes the computing experience tolerable until replacement memory was installed – after which I would set the page file setting back to where it was.
6 Ways To Hide Files
6 Ways To Hide Files
In the context of this article, the hiding of files covers in-plain-sight and not-in-plain-sight. You’ll understand what I mean by that as you read through this.
People have their reasons for wanting to hide certain files. Maybe you’re updating your résumé at work and want to keep it away from prying eyes. Maybe you have some super-secret plans for world domination. Maybe for reasons not meant to be spoken in polite company. I won’t ask.
There are many ways to hide files, but here are 6, each with an Effectiveness score of one to five stars (5 being best).
1. Renaming
A time-honored practice that is almost half-a-century old at this point. It works especially well when you change the file extension.
Old:
Renamed:
Known Issues : Will have to periodically get into lengthy discussions why the Orthodox church has 51 books in the Old Testament while the Protestants only have 39. Other lengthy discussions may include the attempt of answering the oft asked question of why the New Testament was not named Old Testament Lite: 27-Book Edition.
2. Hiding The File
Right-click file, left click Properties, check Hidden:
Known Issues: "Recently Opened" from the program you edited the file from will still open it right up. You will also forget where you put your file, and.. yeah, you can’t search for it either since it’s hidden.
3. Password Protecting The File
When editing documents, any decent editor will have a save-with-password option.
Known Issues: You will forget your password, or someone will guess it.
4. Emailing The File To Yourself, Deleting Inbox Copy, Keep "Sent" Folder Copy.
Amazingly, this is the last place anyone would look for a document you’re working on. This is a method best described as "security by obscurity."
Known Issues: Not recommended for use on a corporate email account because Exchange admins go batsh*t insane any time anyone attaches a file to an email (and justifiably so since the end users keep sending viruses OVER AND OVER AND– you get the idea.)
5. ZIP, RAR Or 7-Zip It With Password Protected Archive + File Encryption.
This method works very well and is very secure
Known Issues: This is yet another method not recommended for use at work. Archive files stick out like a sore thumb even when sitting on the hard drive not doing anything. At some point an IT Admin will raise an eyebrow or two at you – at which point you jump out a window in a caffeine-induced adrenalin rush from day-old coffee for a quick escape while screaming something about how you deserve a better parking spot, given your tenure at the company.
6. COPY /B (hide archive file inside an image)
This is basically exactly like #1 above but with some added perks.
Step 1.
Make a directory in the root of C drive called DONOTLOOKHERE.
Step 2.
Get a JPG. Any JPG. Any one of these will do. We’ll assume the filename is chuck_norris.jpg. Copy this file to C:\DONOTLOOKHERE.
Step 3.
Archive the files you want to hide to a ZIP, RAR or 7-Zip file. We’ll assume the archive file you create is secret.7z.
Step 4.
Copy secret.7z to C:\DONOTLOOKHERE.
Step 5.
Open a Command Prompt and type the following:
CD C:\DONOTLOOKHERE
COPY /B secret.7z + chuck_norris.jpg chuck_norris.jpg
DEL secret.7z
ECHO I AM AWESOME
EXIT
Close the Command Prompt window.
Step 6.
There is no step 6; you’re done. The only file remaining in the directory is chuck_norris.jpg at this point.
On inspection of the folder, the only thing shown will be the awesomeness that is Chuck Norris:
You, however, can right-click Chuck’s face, select Open then Choose Program:
…and from there select 7-Zip File Manager or other archive program of your choice. After that the archive program will be available as a choice whenever you right-click a JPG, to where you can open it up and see what’s in the secret.7z file you copied in the image.
Using this in combination with #5 above is probably the most effective way to hide files there is on a hard drive.
Known Issues: Suitable for small archives only. A small image with a huge filesize from the addition of a large archive sticks out too easily. Also, repeated viewings of Chuck Norris may cause the urge to buy the entire box set of Walker, Texas Ranger. If you experience this, try an image of MacGuyver instead. Or maybe The A-Team. But not ALF.
USB 3.0 Appearing On More Motherboards
USB 3.0 Appearing On More Motherboards
USB 3.0 is something you’ve heard a lot about but isn’t exactly in wide availability just yet concerning peripherals and devices. However, if you do plan on buying a new motherboard soon, you can purchase one that has USB 3.0 ports on it right now at a very nice price.
How to find motherboards with USB 3.0 ports on them:
- Go NewEgg’s motherboard category.
- Select from the left AMD or Intel, depending on your CPU maker of choice.
- On the next page click "Advanced Search" on the left sidebar.
- Scroll down until you see the "USB 3.0" drop-down menu. It’s suggested you purposely choose "2 x USB 3.0" because the largest selection of motherboards with USB 3.0 have 2 ports.
- Scroll down and click "Search."
- On the next page, click "Guided Search" on the left sidebar, then narrow your results from there (CPU Socket Type, CPU Type, etc), or alternatively just look at the results.
You’ll notice on the vast majority of motherboards available that they have both USB 2.0 and 3.0. Typically you will still get your 6 USB 2.0 ports with the addition of 2 USB 3.0. You’ll also notice it’s becoming much more of a common item, meaning you won’t have to shell out gobs of cash just to have integrated USB 3.0 on your motherboard.
How do you tell where the USB 3.0 ports are on the motherboard? That’s easy. USB 2.0 is black, USB 3.0 is blue: